Main – Mackerel with Rhubarb and Chilli

Photograph by Jason Wain

From page 304 of The New English Kitchen.

This recipe transformed my opinion of both mackerel and rhubarb. Make it, if possible, with the bright pink rhubarb from Yorkshire, sometimes sold as champagne rhubarb, that is available between December and April. It has been grown in the dark and has beautifully tender scarlet stalks. The look of this dish – silver mackerel, shocking-pink sauce – is nearly as good as the taste.

Serves 2

2 pink rhubarb stalks, cut into 1cm/½ inch pieces
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 mild red chilli, deseeded and chopped
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
the fillets from 2 fresh mackerel
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the rhubarb in a pan with the sugar and lemon juice and cook gently until just soft but still holding its shape. Add the chilli, stir once, and leave to cool.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan. Season the mackerel, add it to the pan skin-side down and cook for approximately 2 minutes on each side, until firm to the touch. Serve the mackerel – skin side up for looks – with a large spoonful of the rhubarb sauce on the side and a big watercress salad.

Kitchen Note: grilled mackerel is also good with hot sauces such as mustard and horseradish.